Working from the inside out, the skeleton of a leather handbag

Marco, at Pierotucci Italian leather factory is working on one of the Toscanella leather handbags. As you can see he has assembled the lining first, starting with the characteristic 100% all cotton striped lining, padded with a ridge protection and reinforcement.  You can see how the front flap has already been attached.  The bags are sewn and then turned inside out so that the striped lining will be evident on the interior of the genuine Italian leather handbags.

Marco prepares the linings first, working from the inside out towards the genuine Italian leather shell.

Once the linings are prepared the will be inserted in the the prepared leather bag and then sewn into place, and the final product will be available . . .

When it says MADE in ITALY

When Pierotucci writes MADE in ITALY on their lables, they means everything is from Italy both the leather and the buckle. Italian #leatherbelts

What could be better than a reversible – MADE in ITALY leather belt?  Black on onside and dark brown on the other, it takes just a a flick of the wrist to change this belt from one color to another.  Easy reversible system, all you need to do is simply un-clamp the buckle, remove belt strap, turn the belt over, re-insert into buckle then close the clamp back onto the leather.

Perfect for travel – you need only pack one belt!

What is the Cuoio Collection from Florence Italy?

It seems almost impossible that the same supple leather that is used to make leather jackets and gloves can be applied to create rigid boxes for holding pens, business cards, cigars and reading glasses.  But using the antique traditions of the Cuoio Collection that have been passed down from father to son for generations, skilled artisans can create a hard sided box like a piece of art from cuoio leather. This is a tradition which can easily be dated back to Caterina de Medici  when she apparently  made these leather boxes “all the rage” in the 1500′s in Paris when she included them in her trousseau.

These boxes are examples of  beauty and skilled craftsmanship,  evident in the simple lines, the seamless appearance and the smooth texture of the leather.  Perhaps the most stunning aspect of these uniquely formed leather goods is that they are produced in exactly the same manner as they were over 50 years ago – no high tech, no fancy computers and no synthetic material or colors. Though some would be apt to mix the work of “pelleteria” – that is the cutting, assembling and sewing of leather bags, wallets and belts with that of “cuoio sagomato” – they would most certainly be making a gross error. The raw material may be the same – but the similarities definitely stop there.

+ The unfinished leather is cut to the predetermined size and is then soaked in water.

+ Then one edge of the leather will be thinned out so as to make a cleaner seal where the sides lap over on the final product.

+ Depending on the size and shape of the final product, the wet leather is then molded to a wooden form which is commonly called a “last” and tacked on with small nails or tied so that the leather stays in place.

What is a last?  It is a shoemaker’s model for shaping or repairing a shoe or boot.  But not only a shoemaker, it can be a model for shaping or repairing any type of leather article.

+ The leather is folded and smoothed over the form to make a snug fit and then the edges are glued together with a special glue mixed into a starch paste.

+ Once the leather is formed to the molds they are baked at low temps until thoroughly dried.

+ The now formed leather will be cooled and then the seals where they were glued together are washed to remove any excess glue. Any left over glue will alter the final color of the product.

+ Then the ropes are untied or the tacs are taken out and the dried leather is carefully pulled from the form. Excess leather is cut off at this time and now is the time when defining curves are added.

+ The leather case is now painted with the appropriate color. It is then smoothed with a heated roller and finished with a buffer until it shines.

+ The edges will then be sealed and the exterior of the object is painted and embossed with the Pierotucci name.

What’s in Production today at Pierotucci?

Each handbag goes through 4 phases before it can be checked at quality control, and packed up for storage in the warehouse.

First the leather, lining and in this case the canvas accents needs to be cut.  Secondly, all cut pieces of leather need to be sealed, pressed, punched with holes and sanded down.  Third on the list is the accessories for each bag need to be counted out, this includes the zips, the straps, the snaps and handles.  The last step is the assembly of the bag – starting from the inside out – each bag is composed by putting together first the lining, then the leather casing and finally all accessories and name plates.

In this photo you can see Marina working on the outer panels of the our Toscanella canvas and Italian leather tote with removable shoulder straps.

Orange you glad I didn’t say Tangerine Tango?

Whatever happened to simple normal color names like orange, black, blue?   I came to a rude awakening while coloring with my nieces and nephews this holiday season when we opened a brand new box of Crayola Crayons. (Do you remember the excitement of getting to use the colors for the very first time?  Ahh, the memories,  one of my all time favorite colors was periwinkle – a shade of  blue for those of you who don’t know).

Anyway I digress, I was searching through the colors looking for periwinkle and came up with the color eggplant.

I ask you, whatever happened to periwinkle blue?  Now you have colors like wild strawberry and tangerine tango!  How many of us have ever even seen a wild strawberry? … I was 28 when I saw my first “wild” strawberry…. I recently read that the smell of Crayloa crayons was one of the most recognized scents for adults, but would they recognized a Crayloa crayon called asparagus?

Working with our 10 shades of Italian style, we are on our 4th installment of colorful leather gloves for women and men from the Pierotucci sample glove collection.  10 styles in 10 shades of orange … go0d  -  old-fashion … orange.  This rich shade colored 2012 and all the major catwalks during fashion week and lined designer shelves left and right.  And it is still present this year, especially for the men . .  but of course you wouldn’t get a guy wearing tangerine tango, and thus it has been renamed,  ”safety orange.”

In any case here is a sampling of the orange colored gloves in leather and suede from Pierotucci:

Do you measure up? 8 check points to the perfect fit

Contrary to popular belief, a size USA 10 in women’s fashion does not have universal measurements.

Elizabeth: Wait! You have to take me to shore. According to the Code of the Order of the Brethren…
Barbossa: First, your return to shore was not part of our negotiations nor our agreement so I must do nothing. And secondly, you must be a pirate for the pirate’s code to apply and you’re not. And thirdly, the code is more what you’d call “guidelines” than actual rules. Welcome aboard the Black Pearl, Miss Turner .

- Pirates of the Caribbean: The Curse of the Black Pearl (original title)

Sizes are more like Barbossa’s interpretation of the Code of the Order – guidelines! This means when you read that a size 10 matches a size 44 in European sizes be aware that you should always (always, always) check the cm or inch measurements as well. This is especially true when you are looking at handmade or designer models of leather jackets, skirts, pants and even vests, like those found at Pierotucci.com

The first guideline when purchasing online it is to start with some common ground between you and the online size charts in order to guarantee the best possible fit. However, if you don’t take your body measurements properly – you will find yourself even more confused then before. Requested body measurements can vary according the seamstress or tailors designs therefore when sending your measurements for confirmation always ask the vendor how they measure them so that you can match your method.

Pierotucci Leather Factory offers some standard guidelines for find your perfect fit with their online leather garments.

1) Shoulder – typically, this should be from the joint where your shoulder meets your arm to the corresponding joint.

Some will tell you to measure from the shoulder blade to the neck, but Pierotucci suggests a full shoulder measurement.

Even though jackets which do not have defined shoulder seams can be fitted without this measurement, it  is still important.  Pierotucci will use this measurement to compare it with someone in the office with a similar fit to see exactly how the jacket will hang on the shopper.

It is also not a defining measurement for a vest, but it does help to make the fit as perfect as possible.

2) Sleeve – Let your arm fall naturally (and straight), then measure from the joint where the shoulder meets the arm to joint of your thumb to your hand.  Unless the sleeve requires special snaps, buckles, zippers, etc. Pierotucci will normally suggest that you have it shortened at a local seamstress.

Any special customization on a jacket normalkly means that it is not refundable, so for an easy cuff adjustment it is wise try the jacket on and confirm the perfect fit before making any modifications that render the jacket un-returnable.

This is also the most common measurement to inacurately determine therefore have it done locally and save yourself any disappointment.

3) Chest – You will want to measure your chest at its widest point which is normally right underneath your arms and across your breast plate.

4) Waist – Again you will want to measure at the widest point, which is normally right across the belly button.

Both of these measurements are vital to a good fit, The chest measurement will allow for a comfortable movement with the arms as well as a good closure with the zip,snaps or buttons on the leather jacket or vest.  Since many designs are “fitted” and will hug your figure it safe to say that accurate measurements will  make sure that tummy won’t be sticking out.  IF you like to where heavy sweaters or lots of layers underneather your leather clothing, then you should measure yourself fully dressed so that the seamstress can take this extra space into consideration when cutting your new leather garment.

5) Length – On a jacket this refers to the total length of the body of the jacket. Start from the base of the neck to where you want the jacket to hand down your back.

6) Hips – Look for the widest point on your hips

7) Crotch – for a good fit on your pants, put on a pair of pants with the waist drop exactly where you want it and then measure from the back of the pants, through your legs to the top of the front of the pants.

8) Inseam – again use the pants with a good fit and measure from the top of the inside of the pant leg to the bottom.  However always double check what measurement the company uses for the pant length, some will use the measurement from the waist band to the hem.  In any case, the hem on a skirt  should always include the waistband.  AND when in doubt ask that it is left without a hem and have it done locally.

4 Steps to Slipping into the Perfect Fit Leather Jacket

You don’t need rocket science or be able to speak fluent Italian to get a good fit on a leather jacket bought on the internet.  Afterall, a jacket, skirt, vest or pants handmade from Italian leather is the kind of item that you would like to get it right the first time around . . . between shipping, customization and customs costs!  Not to mention if we can create an app to identify your favorite song and the words, or one to virtually tour you around Tuscany – one should be able to get a perfect fit in the style that they like – and why not, even the color that they prefer.

Just some common sense and these 4 easy steps will get you going in the right direction.

1. Start by carfully reading the description.  A knowledgable and well prepared site will not write a description for the search engines but they will offer a description of the product including the pros and cons.  Look for candid sales staff critiques as well as customer reviews.

2.  Don’t trust standard conversion charts.  So what if you are a 4-6 Talbot? when it comes to selecting  your size you sould always check the cm / inch measurements given.  Especially when the item is a handmade piece, meaning that it was probably designed, cut and assembled without using any modern sizing conventions.  Especailly helpful is to take another item – with a similar cut – and compare the measurements.

Personalizations and customizations for leather jackets, pants, skirts and vest requires skilled crafts man.

3. Have accurate body measurements.  This means not only keeping them up to date (don’t use measurements from 10 years ago – in some case not even 5 will be good enought!) AND make sure that you are taking the measurements in the same way the size shart is asking you to.  For example, many times the shoulder measurement in the States from shoulder joint to the neck – but Pierotucci ask from joint to joint.  When you are using your measurement to match up an item – be sure to check if the size chart offers BODY measurements or the measurments of the jacket, skirt or pants.  These are NOT one in the same, a tailor will always leave extra cm / inches when the cut the clothing so that you have room to move.

Measure shoulders, chest, waist/hips and stomach at their WIDEST point, length in the back and the sleeve.

4.  Make personal contact with the seller. Language barriers just don’t exsit anymore when shopping abroad.  Stores that mean business will have a bi-lingual sales staff on hand to answer your phone call.  Speaking directly with an experienced sales agent is the perfect way to eliminate many doubts about the cut of the jacket, the sizing, shipping and return details, as well as give you confidence in their product.  Listen to how they answer your questions and how they assist you in finding the right fit. If you aren’t sure about how to contact them via phone, a direct email is just as good.  Any reply should be personal – and not a form letter.  Sizing is individual and personal – and that’s the kind of attention you deserve when ordering a jacket – especially if its online.

Free Men’s Italian Leather Belt

Only two days left to take advantage of this deal. Now when you spend €150 or more on any order, receive a free men’s leather reversable belt.

Lambskin vs. Calfskin – What’s the Difference?

Here at Pierotucci we use several types of high quality Italian leather, both lambskin and calfskin included. It’s not a matter of one being better than the other, as both leathers are considered a luxury material, but there are in fact several differences between the two. As a general rule of thumb, we typically stick to using lambskin for leather garments such as jackets and coats and calfskin for handbags, wallets, and other leather accessories. The reason behind this is quite simple. Lambskin is a much softer, buttery type of leather and also much more light weight, easily forming to the body. You wouldn’t want to put on a jacket that weighed you down to the floor, would you? Calfskin however, is a tougher and thicker leather than lambskin, therefore better for handbags because the leather retains its shape more easily. Beyond the idea that lambskin is ultimately best for garments and calfskin for handbags, lambskin is also very insulative and protective, especially for its thiness. It stands up to cold climates better than any other synthetic material, which makes it the obvious choice for leather jackets. In comparison, calfskin is soft (although typically not as soft as lambskin) while remaining highly durable, making it good for harsh conditions and withstanding abrasions. So, the next time your’re out and about shopping for leather, feel the texture of it, look at the thickness, see how heavy it is and soon you will be a leather expert too.

 

      

Great reviews from our shoppers at Pierotucci Leather Factory

One of the fun things about working here at Pierotucci in Florence Italy, is getting to visit with all the tourists that stop by our store – it’s so much fun to help them browse through our selection of Italian leather jackets and try them on looking for just the perfect match.  Then when they do find one, it is a great pleasure to see the excitment and satisfaction on their face as the parade around in their new leather jacket!

It’s rare that we get a chance to see them afterwards at home and for that we would like to thank L. D.  who is a Licensed Aesthetician/Nail Tech/Novalash Eyelash Extensionist from Lakeland, FL.  She visited our store and purchased one of our jackets and was nice enough to send us a photo – before and after.  Have a look at this lovely lady!

She certainly does justice to this red jacket with the frilled peplum!

Womens Cropped Leather Jacket with Frilled Peplum