Leather Dying Process

Dying or giving color to leather is not an easy task to do, in fact it is a delicate and long process to achieve. For example Italy is one of the largest and greatest producers of the best leather internationally. The animal skin goes through a tanning process before receiving its final color in the Italian tannery. Italy, where I work, has been considered on an international level as one of the largest and greatest producers of high quality leather. I was surprised, because, yes, leather is “made,” it is not born leather. Working for the design and public relations in a prominent leather factory, helped me understand the steps that the animal skins take to become leather. I never thought that making even a pair gloves could be so difficult. Producing leather is hard and very costly, but the results are well worth the beauty.

The animal skin goes through several cleaning procedures called the tanning process. The fat, flesh and hair are removed. Then the skins are rubbed all over with wet salt until the dead skin is peeled off and skins get softer. After it has been treated with salt for a few months the skin is soaked in water to keep away dangerous and disfiguring bacteria (this process also assures the excess fat will be completely removed.) There are two different tanning process: vegetable tanning and mineral tanning. The process which is chosen depends on the type of performance which is required of the leather. Mineral tanning is used when you want to have a softer leather which can be used for more delicate light weight leather goods such as: handbags and leather clothing and jackets.  Instead the vegetable tanning is a longer process and it is used to create a more rigid and/or stiffer leather. It is perfect for sporting equipment or leather accessories such as belts and luggage. The leather will be stronger and more resistant. It is only after a few days of absorbing the color and then a few more days when the leather dries out that it is ready for leather merchandise.

Italy: The Land of Stain Prone Accidents!

When one thinks of Italy they tend to think three things: Roman history, breathtaking monuments and countryside, and amazing food.  The first two are spot on.  No where else in the world are there as many blatant testaments to mankind’s past.  Every corner in Rome is occupied by ancient ruins, centuries old piazzas, and symbols of a long lost history.  It is nicknamed the “Eternal City” for a reason.  Monuments are also a major attraction, ancient or otherwise.  Florence, city of the Renaissance,  has innumerable monuments in just about every hole and cubby that attest to the city’s artistic greatness. Great monuments can also be found in just about any piazza of any town, and lend to risk free viewing pleasure.  So why do I highlight the first two great things about Italy as G-rated tourist pleasures, but not the last?  Half the fun of coming to Italy is eating the fantastic food!  Well I have a spoiler alert for all you destined to dine in the old country.  Beware the stains!  Below are my recommendations for stain removal from life experiences I’ve had in Italy.  Trust me that handy Tide pen is not likely to help you here!

Today I’m going to tackle the two biggies: Red Wine and Olive Oil.  First up to bat?

Olive Oil
Now in a perfect world pastas and breads soaked in olive oil should be relatively easy to eat.  You have your fork  or you dip your bread, not hard.  Remember though you are in the land of passionate expressive people.  One well executed hand gesture from a neighbor could very well land that oil topped piece of bread in your lap.  Same goes for the pasta.  You are enjoying your pasta and didn’t realize you had a drop of oil on your lip and voila, it just landed on your khakis.  So what DO you do and what DON’T you do.
Do: Blot the stain with a clean napkin.  Use a clean spot of the napkin every time you blot.  After you have removed the top layer of access oil, cover the stain with an absorbent powder like Talcum, baking soda, or cornstarch.  Be generous with the covering.  You will need the powder to absorb the oil out of your clothing.  Leave the powder on for at least half and hour before lightly brushing off.  If some of the powder sticks to the stain then great!  Let it stay there, because it is still soaking up oil.  Leave it there till you can properly launder it.  Many restaurants do have talcum powder at the ready.
Don’t:  Do not immediately go to the bathroom and use hand soap to try and wash it out.  The majority of bathroom hand soaps are not grease fighting, and therefore will not effectively remove the stain.  Also if you choose to wait to treat the stain when you launder your clothing, add a bit of detergent on top of the stain and let sit for a few minutes.  Wash the garment appropriately, but do not dry it in a dryer!  Let it air dry to check to see if the stain is really gone.  Once you use a dryer you’ve pretty much set the stain for life.

Red Wine
This stain is much easier to imagine.  We spill things on ourselves all the time, therefore red wine is a fairly common stain.  The real question is how to the people of the land of wine treat this stain?  Surely they have some inside secrets on effective removal.  The answer is yes and no.
Do:  We’ve all heard that club soda is a great way to get fresh red wine stains out.  This is true, and fortunately Italy has an abundant supply of fizzy waters at the ready.  Order a glass of water frizzante or gassata (gassata tends to be more carbonated, and will work better).  Douse your stain with the water then rub/blot the stain with a clean napkin to remove the wine.  Absorbent powders also work in this situation.  After you have used carbonated water, and the stain is still there, even if faintly, use talcum powder to help absorb the remaining wine.  Leave the stain covered with a light layer of powder till you are ready to launder it.  If you are still in Italy, go to a regular supermarket and buy something call “sgrassatore”, a white liquid in a spray bottle.  Spray the stain generously with this liquid, let sit for a few minutes, then wash.

And don’t forget the next time you pop open a bottle of wine, be sure to give thanks to the generations of Italian grandmother’s who have honed the art of removing food’s delicious reminders from our favorite clothes.

Leather Garment Care: Your Standard Dos and Don’ts!

The majority of leather garments do come preconditioned, which is a main selling point for most Sales Assistants.  Our jackets and leather clothing do come preconditioned as well, but we do suggest that you condition them again after purchase.  Preconditioning procedures, of course, vary from factory to factory, so using a leather stripping cream and then reconditioning it would be the best option.  It is a labor intensive process, though.  When in doubt, just condition.

We get many questions about leather getting wet, especially the more delicate garment leathers (Nappa Lambskin and Kitskin).  It is not life threatening if leather gets wet!  Consider that the cows, sheep, and goats are out in the rain during their lifetime, therefore your coat CAN withstand the rain.  Garments and jackets are meant to be worn to fit your lifestyle, so do not overly pamper them!  Wear them proudly!  There are some simple tips to help you keep your beautiful leather jacket/garment looking new.  Please refer to your climate below for advice!

Dry Climate: Condition at least 4 times a year, and always condition after getting the jacket/garment even slightly wet.  This will help avoid cracking.

Wet Climate: Use a waterproof cream or spray 4 times a year.  If your climate is extremely wet, waterproof every 2 months.  Condition the garment/jacket, wait till it is completely dry, then waterproof it.  This will help keep the leather looking new after using the waterproofing coat.

Snow/Salt: Salt is a killer for leather, because it dries out the natural oils, which leads to cracking.  Imagine yourself after a long day at the beach!  Your skin needs moister!   Salt also stains.  The best way to remove salt is to use a very soft sponge, dampen it, and lightly press the sponge on the affected areas.  If the salt is dry, it will be much easier to see how well you are removing it.  It is best to try to use the sponge before the salt has dried.  After you have done this, recondition the affected area.

**If you live in an area that has many climate changes (i.e. the mid-western states of America), we recommend that you condition it 4 times, and waterproof only during the wet season.  Waterproof it once again at the end of the wet season.  This last waterproofing will last throughout the occasional summer showers.

Storage!  Always store your leather garment/jacket in a cloth bag.  Leather needs to breathe!  Do not seal it up in a plastic bag.  If your bag did not come with a cloth bag, and all you have is plastic, then put holes in the plastic and do not tie the bottom.  Store the garment/jacket at room temperature, preferably in a dimly lighted area. Try NOT to fold it.

Products to be on the lookout for: Zymol leather care kit, Meguiars Gold Class Cleaner and Conditioner, Lexus leather care kit.  When in doubt, consult a luxury car dealership.  The majority of leathers used in their interiors are the same kinds of high quality leathers used in garment and jacket production.

Leather Care Tips Direct From The Factory!

I can’t how many times one of my family members has asked for advice on how to treat/condition their leather.  Ever since I started working at Pierotucci, I have been in a constant stage of learning about different methods of cleaning and conditioning the different types of leather we use.  The Pierotucci factory firmly believes in educating all this employees on the types of leather we use, and the properties they possess.  That being said, we would like to share what we have learned from Italian artisans to all of our followers!

There are many types of leathers in the world.  We normally use Nappa lambskin for jacket and garment production.  Our bags tend to be made out of a stronger leather called Vacchetta.  Every now and then we also come in contact with suede.  Below are some of our well known secrets!

Garment and Car leathers (Nappa lambskin): This is a very delicate leather, and therefore must be treated with the utmost care.  Using standard leather car care products (most leather interiors are nappa) is fine, but make-up removal creams tend to be a lot gentler on the leather, preventing premature wear and tear.  Garments, such as jackets and clothing, are even more delicate.  Try rubbing the gentlest make-up remover onto a very small area, and wait till it dries.  We ask you to do this to make sure the remover did not leave a stain of its own.  If it didn’t, then proceed to clean the entire garment.

Bag and Briefcase leathers (Vacchetta): Bag leathers tend to be a lot less delicate as they are made from much sturdier types of leathers.  We use mostly Vacchetta leather.  Florentine Vacchetta leather is cowhide from cows that have been raised in controlled pastures in Tuscany.  Therefore minimal scratches and scuffs can be easily repaired by rubbing them out with your fingers or a standard leather conditioner.  Liquid normally  will bead and wipe off easily.

Suede: The best conclusion I came to, after asking just about everyone that works in our factory, is that suede is best clean with a soft brush.  So the next time you are about to throw out an old toothbrush, keep it and put it away for the future.  We all are inclined to not buy suede do to its high maintenance nature, but wind up buying something suede during our lifetime.  Old toothbrushes come in handy outside the military as well!

Shoe Leather: Naturally shoe leather can vary, so the treating and cleaning of them vary as well.  It is hard to anticipate how to care for shoe leather stains, aside from using shoe polish.  Please ask directly if you have a question regarding a specific type of stain.

Ink: Impossible!  Naturally the sooner to treat an ink stain the better chance you have at removing it.  Some sites suggest rubbing alcohol with a cotton swab.  We do not recommend this. Ink is absorbed into the leather, so avoid this stain at all costs!

Coffee: Medium, coffee should wipe right off a leather like Vacchetta, but for suede we recommend you remove as much liquid by patting it out of the leather.  Do Not Rub It! Use lukewarm water slightly soapy, then with a damp cloth to get the soap out, then pat dry with a dry cloth.

Oils: Hard, use absorbent powders like Talcum and Cornstarch.  Cover the area of the stain completely with a thick layer of powder, and let sit for a while (hour or two). Gently blow the powder off.  If some powder remains, leave it be.  It means it is still absorbing the oil.  Brush off lightly later.

I’m sure I have not begun to cover all the questions you all have concerning leather care.  Every case is specific, so I would like to encourage you to post your questions on our blog’s comment area.  I will take your questions to heart, and ask them directly to our artisans working in the factory.  We all share the common love of leather, and so we would like to help you keep yours just as clean and new as the first day you bought it.　

 

Keep your leather bag or leather jacket looking as good as the day you bought it!

We all want our leather items to look fantastic, in fact we want them to look as good as the day we walked out of the shop with it or we took it out of the box. Here a few simple tips that will help you achieve that just purchased look and feel.

Ok, you know not to toss your leather jacket or leather bag in the washing machine. But now it’s time to get technical:

• Don’t store leather in a plastic garment bag! It can’t breathe. Opt for a cloth cover instead.
• If you absolutely must iron the item, set the iron on the lowest setting. Don’t use steam! Place a heavy brown wrapping paper (or grocery bag) on the right side of the garment between the garment and the iron. Quickly iron using a light hand. Avoid overheating!
• Keep the item on a broad, study hanger so it keeps its shape.
• Put plenty of tissue paper in your bag so it keeps its shape and store it in a dustbag away from direct light.
• If the item becomes wet, let it dry naturally. Avoid extreme heat or humidity that may damage the skin’s natural oils.
• Clean smooth leathers with a damp cloth.
• Regularly brush suedes and nubuck. Avoid chemicals cleaning.
• Don’t spray hairspray or perfume while wearing your leather items.
• Seek out a professional leather care specialist when the goods become badly worn or soiled.

Don’t forget to check the label and the Guide to Common Home Laundering & Drycleaning Symbols!

For more details contact Pierotucci’s customersevice.